Decorated Mosques

Ramazan in Hyderabad – Where to and What to Eat, and What to Shop – Part 2

Posted on Posted in Food, Food Adventures, mutton, Non Vegetarian

You can read Part 1 here.

After eating so much on day 1, you’d think we ‘d suffer from some sort of belly troubles. Heck, we thought we were in for a tummy-ulent time after all the street food.

But guess what?

Nothing.

We slept like babies and were ready to take on what Hyderabad had to offer to us on Day 2.

Since had a long long day, we decided to have a decent, but not a comatose heavy breakfast, and we landed at everyone’s favourite – Chutneys. The 2 km walk to chutneys whetted our appetites and we were hungry like lions. After a quick brekker of Guntur idlis, Steamed and sada dosa and spectacular filter coffee, we were ready to take on the world.

Guntur is a city in Andhra Pradesh, extremely popular for its spicy food. The brownish powdery paste on the idlis, is just a mild taste of Guntur

Guntur Idlis and Chutneys
Guntur Idlis and Chutneys

 

Steamed Dosa
Steamed Dosa served with Jaggery, honey and lemon chutney

 

Fresh Filter coffee
Fresh Filter coffee

We headed to Abids since a couple of us wanted to take back a little something for the ladies at home. A quick auto ride and we were at Abids. Abids is a shopping area populated with countless Jewellers and their derivatives. It is easy to get lost in all the finery. But we were looking for only one shop – Mangatrai. The most famous dealer of pearls in all of Asia, apparently.

We were at the other side of Abids and had to walk nearly 4 kms to get to Mangatrai. We saw something really amazing at MR – Basra pearls. Apparently, the Nizam used to always get his pearls from Basra, a small region in Iraq. These pearls came out during the petroleum excavation, and consequently were priceless. Basra pearls do not occur naturally anymore, so their value is extremely high, we were told.

Basra Pearls
Basra Pearls

ProTIP : Negotiate like your life depends on it, and you can walk away with a cool discount of upto 30% easily.

After a quick (almost) selection and purchase (regular pearls, not Basra! ) we headed to eat.

Bawarchi, the local favourite (again debatable, but let us leave it at that) is where we were headed.

Bawarchi
Bawarchi

At 4 in the afternoon, we had to wait for 20 minutes. As soon as we got our table, a quick order of Chicken Biryani (too much mutton last night) and Chicken tangri was ordered. We loved the biryani at Bawarchi. It was light and nicely spiced, the chicken cooked well, and enough for the three of us. We could argue that we were not gorging on large portions, but in all honesty, none of us could finish all of the biryani alone. And portion sizes at Bawarchi are HUGE! Mind you this was the original Bawarchi.

Biryani at Bawarchi
Biryani at Bawarchi

There are many rips offs such as New Bawarchi, Green Bawarchi, Taj Green Bawarchi, Airport Bawarchi and so on. The list is hilarious.

Now that were were satiated, we had to shop for some cookies from Karachi Bakery – another Hyderabad Gem. Though they do export as well, we had to see the original shop. But enroute we got distracted by something chilly. Ice cream. At Famous Ice creams! Every one knows my love for ice cream, so there was no way were missing this!

Famous Ice Cream
Famous Ice Cream

Famous Ice creams is famous for their pot ice cream. Now before you get any ideas, it is called pot ice cream because it is made in the old fashion manner. And does not have the popular herb, sadly. Anyway, they had the most amazing fruit ice creams! We had the Mango (spectacular), Anjeer (mindblowing), Sitaphal (so so) and Chickoo (again spectacular). We also tried their pista ‘slices’ but didn’t think to much of it.

Mango, Anjeer and Sitaphal (anti clockwise)
Mango, Anjeer and Sitaphal (anti clockwise)

Now to tackle Karachi Bakery.

Karachi Bakery
Karachi and it’s history

Karachi Bakery may not be the olderst bakery in town, but is undisputably the most popular and well known. They are most well known for their fruit biscuits, but have a spectacular range as well – Chocolate Oatmeal, Chand (frankly the chand biscuit at Nimrah was way better), Osmania, Khari and what not.

Karachi Bakery Delights
Karachi Bakery Delights

Once we were done here, we headed back to the hotel, ’cause by now we were looking like a bunch of ragtags. And we were sleepy from all that eating.

Dinner was planned at Rayalseema Ruchulu – a popular joint for Rayalseema cuisine, which is considered very hot and spicy. We had a few local residents with us who took the onus to order for us.

Rayalseema Ruchuku
Rayalseema Ruchuku

We started with a RR Special Kodi (Chicken) and vegetarian manchurian for starters. The veg manchurian beat the chicken starter hands down. The RR special Kodi was like thin slivers of chicken meat, and gone before we knew it. Natu Kodi (gaouti chicken), Mutton with Gongurra leaves, and goat brain curry platter was ordered for main course, along with a RR speciality called Raagi Sangati. These are huge raagi balls, semi soft, and are used to mop up and eat the curry. And you’re supposed to add oodles of ghee on top. Natu Kodi is RR’s speciality. A rustic dish, it brings in lots of flavour that say “Have Me!”again and again! The gongurra mutton and brain were just about ok.

Any plans that we may have had of going to eat later in the night, were quickly shelved after eating this ‘small’ meal.

Gobi Manchurian
Gobi Manchurian
RR Special Kodi
RR Special Kodi
Raagi Sangati
Raagi Sangati
Gravy Train - Natu Kodi, Gongurra Mutton, Brain bottom to top)
Gravy Train – Natu Kodi, Gongurra Mutton, Brain bottom to top)
Qubaani ka Meetha
Qubaani ka Meetha

This meal had to be topped with Qubaani ka Meetha (Sweetened apricot with cream) and ice cream. This is another specialty of Hyderabad which I am yet to see anywhere else.

On the way back to the hotel, we saw this delightful bakery on wheels! The master baker, Raju, had set up a porta – chimney, old school style, on a cart and kept feeding it with blocks of wood. The result was delicious coin sized naankhatais! Warm, and sweet and light to start with, and a salty finish at the end! At Rs. 20 for a 100 gms, this was the best deal we got all day!

Raju and the Bakery
Raju and the Bakery

This was our tipping point. We needed our beds now!

Coming up – Part 3 – Nizami Shaadi Ka Khaana

Leave a Reply